As we wake up to daily headlines and spend our days having push notifications sent our way, we’re constantly reminded of the state of flux we’re all trying to walk through right now. This world of ours, it looks different to the way it did a year ago. As the fashion industry faces one of the biggest shake-ups it has had in years, knowing who made our clothes – along with how they’re made and what they’re made from – continues to remain a priority, even in these strange days. Times have changed and priorities have shifted, but still there are some things that remain solid, that stay steadfast. Sustainability may not be making headlines, but it’s a modus operandi, a way of working and living, that can’t – and won’t – be dropped from the daily agenda.
A year ago, we took a team to Southern China – to show them exactly who made our clothes so that we could share that with you. In our short film, #WhoMadeMyClothes?, you see the stories of just a small sample of the almost 9,000 people involved in manufacturing our own-brand labels; stories of the people who manufacture your clothes. Our aim was – and still is – to try and reconnect customers with the clothes they wear through these human stories.
Fashion Revolution Week encourages millions of people to come together to campaign for systemic change in the fashion industry. And this, the first day, of Fashion Revolution, asks us to continue to ask, #whomadeourclothes. And sure, in the current climate, it’s never been more important to ask such a question. For us, it’s never not been a question. We are committed to transparency about our supply chain progress and believe our customers, partners and wider stakeholders have the right to ongoing information about THE ICONIC’s social and environmental responsibility. So, as we mark the first day of Fashion Revolution Week 2020 and remember those we featured in our film, let’s check in with Rebekka Carey-Smith, THE ICONIC’s Senior Sustainability Manager, on what’s happened since we introduced you to the people behind your wardrobes.
Tell us, what’s changed one year on from #WhoMadeMyClothes?
“We have continued our relationship with all the factories featured in the film throughout the past 12 months. The 48 factories and 14,000 majority women workers we are working with are core to our private label brands and while we have begun working with some new factories and stopped working with some when product ranges change (for example introducing swimwear), close to 50 per centof the factories we are currently working with have been with us for over a year. We try to retain a consistent supply chain wherever possible to ensure we can offer long term support.
“What we realise, more than ever before, is how small the world really is, how connected we all are and how much we all rely on each other in so many ways. The people who make our clothes are no exception and in these uncertain times we need to remember that the products we buy were still made by skilled garment makers, who are also navigating this global pandemic just like we are, however, may be disproportionately affected by the affects of this pandemic purely because of where they live. Think about how your purchase is supporting the brands you love who might be making the clothes they sell and if you’re curious to know more then ask the brand #whomademyclothes.”
What is the impact of Covid-19 on the factories we work with? How are we working through the pandemic with them?
“We are extremely proud to be working with 48 factories in China, India and Bangladesh – most of which we have been working with for a long time. These factories, our suppliers, have felt the impacts of Covid-19 in different ways and at different times. As China looks to be emerging from the crisis and lockdowns are lifted, other countries are feeling the full force of lockdowns and their impact on logistics as well as demand. India and Bangladesh are now experiencing full country lockdowns – their factories are closed and we are working with our factories to ensure workers are receiving the wages they are due. So, in some cases our orders may be delayed until factories can reopen or reach their full capacity. We continue to monitor the situations in each of our sourcing countries and are supporting suppliers and factories who are able to continue manufacturing our orders and rephasing other orders where necessary. We look forward to our continued relationship with our suppliers throughout and after this pandemic.”
What are the want-to-knows? How has THE ICONIC been engaging its supply chain and workers?
“Before the travel restrictions came into place, we regularly visited the suppliers and factories that make our clothes. We made regular visits to China where the majority of our factories are based (until travel restrictions were put in place) and we visited our factories in Bangladesh late last year and India early this year (again, before travel restrictions came into place). Each of these visits gives us the privilege to meet some of the wonderful people who make our private label clothes. Getting our feet on the ground in these factories gives us the opportunity to understand the operating context more deeply as well as providing support and guidance where needed to factories to make necessary improvements to their businesses and operations as highlighted through our factory audit program.
“We are pleased with the progress made to date, where 45 per cent of non compliances raised in audits have been resolved, but sometimes more support is needed and in person visits provide a great opportunity to do this. These visits are so important to us and as soon as we can we will be back over to visit more of the near 14,000 people working in our factories and begin the rollout of some new projects we have planned to positively impact their lives including our worker hotline and worker training programs.”
How can I, as a customer, help people within the supply chain who have been affected by Covid-19?
“At THE ICONIC, our priority is to be able to continue trading with our factories and ensure decent work is available for these communities. As soon as we can recommence travel, we will be back there visiting workers, checking factory conditions and assessing how we can further support the people who work in our supply chain to improve their livelihoods.
“In the meanwhile, THE ICONIC is working to identify a number of charities supporting communities impacted by COVID-19 on the ground includes the communities that we source our clothing from. Right now, we are looking to partner with a charity providing on-the-ground aid to communities in Bangladesh and India. We’ll share these with you as they are confirmed.”
Who else in the industry is doing a good job of sharing #whomademyclothes?
“Lots of brands! Bec + Bridge’s Meet Our Makers campaign is great; we love the behind the scenes that Nobody Denim share of their Melbourne factory; OUTLAND Denim’s story of female empowerment through employment is incredible and Nudie Jeans have an interactive production guide which shares information about their factories around the world.”