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Beauty
|8 Sep 2022|4 mins

Skin Cycling: Here’s How To Try TikTok’s Latest Viral Skincare Routine

Everything you need to know about the expert-approved beauty trend.
Skin Cycling Skincare Emma ChamberlainSkin Cycling Skincare Emma Chamberlain

Beauty trends come and go on TikTok, but it’s not every day that you come across one that’s actually backed by beauty experts. Enter: skin cycling. 

If you haven’t heard of skin cycling, it’s the latest skincare trend to go viral on TikTok for its ability to help with uneven skin texture, sensitivity and breakouts. Originally coined on the app by dermatologist Dr Whitney Bowe, the four-step nightly skincare routine is surprisingly simple to follow – and unlike other trends such as sunscreen contouring and at-home freckle tattoos, this one actually makes a lot of sense. 

We spoke with skin therapist and founder of Melbourne’s Fresh Face Skin Salon, Amelia Goff, to find out more about skin cycling and how to try the trend at home. 

What is skin cycling?

“This new skincare craze refers to a 4-night skincare routine in which you switch between active ingredients to focus on stimulating the skin and then letting your skin rest, recover and repair itself, using barrier-loving ingredients. I love it because instead of overcomplicating your skincare routine by using too many, self-diagnosed active ingredients continuously, resulting in an impaired barrier function and overall skin sensitivity, this routine allows the skin to rest from the stimulation and strengthen the most important part of itself, the barrier, allowing the skin to safely absorb the active ingredients.”

What does a skin cycling routine look like?

Night 1: exfoliation 
“After a double cleanse (the first cleanse to remove surface skincare, dirt, sweat and oil build up and the second cleanse to cleanse the skin of bacteria and build up), leave the skin damp and apply an exfoliating active to the skin such as glycolic or lactic acid for a dry or combination skin or salicylic acid for oily, congested skin. Applying a leave-on acid-based serum to the skin will gently and effectively dissolve the outermost layer of the skin as you sleep, correcting surface concerns such as an uneven skin tone, pigmentation, a rough skin texture, excessive oiliness and surface buildup – so you can wake up with a fresh, bright complexion. Then finish with applying a moisturiser to nourish the skin as you sleep.”

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Night 2: stimulation
“Again, after a double cleanse, dry the skin completely and apply a retinol-based product to the skin – remember less is more with this product. There are many different forms of retinol, but the main focus when using a retinol product is to stimulate the skin and repair damage to the skin cells DNA. From the age of 20, our skin begins to slow down, meaning collagen and elastin production and the skin's ability to heal and regenerate itself declines. Over time, our cells also begin to degrade due to all that we expose our skin and body to including pollution, free radicals, UV, and toxins just to name a few. These begin to wear and tear at our cells brain function (the DNA of the cell), resulting in skin that is functioning in an unhealthy way.”

“Retinol plumps the skin up, gets it moving and begins to repair the damage done to our cells brain (DNA), meaning that overall, the skin is performing in a more youthful, healthier way. After your retinol application, you want to again finish by applying a moisturiser to nourish the skin as you sleep.”

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Nights 3 & 4: recovery
“Without a strong, healthy skin barrier function to shield and protect the skin, our complexion isn't a healthy one. The skin barrier function is one that is often bypassed and yet is in my opinion, the most important skin structure to protect and maintain. Barrier impairment will result in skin dehydration, inflammation, irritation and reactiveness to active ingredients such as acids and retinol, as these ingredients will penetrate into the skin too quickly, causing overall skin flare-ups and aggravation.

This makes these two nights vital for the skin's ability to cope with the stimulation of external active ingredient usage and to continue to challenge the skin's performance as needed.”

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Why has skin cycling become so popular?

“Because it's providing great skin results without causing long-term skin sensitivity, due to the overuse of active ingredients within skincare, which often disrupt the important role that our barrier plays in overall skin health.”

Where did the skin cycling trend come from?

“Where else other than Tik Tok?! What I love about this is it has been developed by a dermatologist – meaning, there's some science behind this skin craze! New York City-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe, has been teaching the method on her platform since April 2021.”

Is it suitable for everyone?

“Like every beauty trend, approach with caution and always listen to your skin. Mild tingling is a normal sensation when it comes to using retinol and acid-based products on the skin, but burning and heat that is escalating is never a good sign. Remove if this is the case and take that as a sign your skin is needing a little extra TLC and perhaps more of the rest and recovery days for barrier strengthening and repair.” 

“But for those that are unsure where to start with a skincare routine, this covers all the basics and will gradually get your skin performing at its best, without causing long-term skin sensitivity.”

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Sophie Howe
Beauty Editor
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