New Balance Updates an All-time Classic

In 2019, New Balance set out to embrace the demand for heritage-inspired sportswear by creating a new school series that riffs on templates set by its premium 99x releases. Bringing comfort to the fore, these detuned lifestyle-centric models deliver max comfort without sacrificing the timeless good looks of the original. Before we discover how the 997 transformed into the 997H, here’s a little 99x history lesson.

99x Lineage

Released in 1982, the 990 not only offered a number of industry firsts, it laid the groundwork for New Balance’s foreseeable future. Decked out in a combination of premium pig suede and mesh, the 990 employed everything from Motion Control devices and dual-density midsoles to a Vibram ‘SuperFlex’ blown rubber outsole. The 990 was also the first shoe to feature 3M’s reflective synthetic material for better visibility during night-time running.

Despite the $100 price point, the 990 flew off shelves before New Balance followed up with the 995 in 1986. The first-ever NB silhouette helmed by legendary product designer Steven Smith (who would go on to design the 997), the 995 tweaked the 990’s winning formula by replacing the original SuperFlex sole with a new moulded design. The 995 also added pre-moulded ENCAP for better cushioning distribution.

The 996 arrived in 1988 and gave the 99x series its biggest overhaul yet. Steven Smith added suede panels at the rear that followed the diagonal lines of the redesigned heel clip for a more aggressive look.

Slimmed-down logos also joined the club, adding to the 99x’s refined visual appeal. Last but not least, the reworked rubber outsole utilised a central pod of lighter and softer rubber for the best 99x cushioning yet. If Newbie fans were impressed by the 995 and 996, they hadn’t seen anything yet.

The Original 997

As the 1990s arrived, the 99x series needed to keep up with demand for enhanced tech features. Designed by Steven Smith once again, the 997 duly delivered, improving on the 995 and 996 in myriad ways.

The elegant 997 profile was defined by an elevated heel pad accompanied by a radical new polyurethane shell that housed dual-density ENCAP inserts. C-CAP foam ran from the medial side of the midfoot to the toe, while removable arch supports further aided the sense of cushioning progression. To cap off the updated tooling, Smith utilised a tri-density outsole that came complete with heavy-duty XAR-1000 carbon rubber heel pads for extra grip and durability.

Naturally, the 997 required a fresh skin to match its new tooling and Smith did not disappoint. The classic 99x suede and mesh combo was enhanced with luxuriously dimpled cow hide, while the Hytrel thermoplastic collar lockdown straps not only added a dose of visual flair, they acted as a sway bar by connecting the top eyelets to the heel counter. The 997 was the perfect blend of striking good looks and modern tech, producing a form-meets-function runner that New Balance have arguably not topped since.

A New Classic

Fast-forward to 2019 and New Balance have gifted us all with the 997H. A modern-day spin on the iconic 997, the new-gen design tweaks the specs at a much more accessible entry point.

The 997H exterior primarily remains the same, though the 997’s premium pebbled leather has been swapped for additional mesh on the tongue and collar. The moulded Hytrel straps have also been updated with debossed detailing that replicates the OG 997 look. The bold midsole branding is another visual reminder of past glory! The cushioning has also been dialled up to 11, revamping the original ENCAP/C-CAP combo by way of GCEVA and contemporary outsole construction. The 997H is significantly lighter as well, making the model perfect for casual consumers.

All in all, the 997H is a classic update to a true original, one that expertly builds on the OG without compromising its all-timer status.