Everything You Need To Know About Hyaluronic Acid

It’s an essential step for every skincare routine.

If there’s one ingredient that should be a staple in your routine, hyaluronic acid is it. Along with SPF, this super hydrator should be your desert island skincare pick. Of all the skincare gold standards – retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide, to name a few – hyaluronic acid is the perfect low-maintenance friend.

Keep reading to find out how to maximise its benefits.

What is hyaluronic acid and how does it benefit the skin?

First up, it’s helpful to know what this ingredient actually is. “Hyaluronan or hyaluronic acid is the key molecule involved in skin moisture,” says Dr Jonathan Hopkirk, Global Medical Director at Skinstitut. “As a humectant (a substance that retains moisture) hyaluronic acid provides improvements in skin texture minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles and improving skin moisture content, keeping skin plump and supple.”

Hyaluronic acid, while naturally occurring in our skin, depletes rapidly as we age. “The skin’s hyaluronic acid content starts to decrease as early as twenty and is reduced to half by the age of fifty,” explains Dr Hopkirk. This decline is largely responsible for the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and the noticeable sagging of skin. The good news is, that adding it back into the skin will not only hydrate but plump wrinkles and add radiance.

Who is hyaluronic acid best for?

Hyaluronic acid is an equal opportunity hydrator, not playing favourites between oily and dry skin types. It’s great for everyone’s skin. Those with super dry, dehydrated or ageing skin will love its effects but it works a treat for acne-prone or oily skin too, Dr Hopkirk says, with a recent study finding a relationship between hyaluronic acid and the maintenance of healthy sebum production.

How do we choose the most effective formula?

Chances are you’re already slapping on a cream or serum with hyaluronic acid listed, but there are different types that don’t all play the same. “Understanding these will help you select the most effective formulation for your skin,” says Dr Hopkirk.

“Hyaluronic acid in its purest form has a high molecular weight, meaning it has the greatest moisture retention abilities. As a result, when it is applied topically, it behaves like an occlusive,” says Dr Hopkirk. An occlusive will form a barrier on your skin – similar to how slugging works – and seal in moisture. Different types of this ingredient such as hydrolysed hyaluronic acid or hyaluronic acid salts, have smaller molecular weights, meaning they become more stable and can penetrate deeper into the top layer or the second layer of the skin.

The best option is a formula that contains a mix of different types of hyaluronic acid, essentially giving you the best of both worlds. You’ll get the deeply penetrating benefits of the smaller molecules, while also sealing in moisture via the larger molecules that sit atop the skin. Try the fast-absorbing Medik8 Hydr8 B5 or cult-fave The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5

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How best to apply hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is found in skin care formulas from cleansers to eye masks. “This ingredient is beneficial in any type of formula; however the key is to apply it to damp skin,” says Dr Hopkirk. This ensures the skin “absorbs the moisture as opposed to pulling moisture from the skin, which will actually leave the skin more dehydrated.” he shares.

Your best bet? A hyaluronic acid serum, which thanks to its lightweight formula “will allow optimal absorption before applying heavier skincare products, which will lock all the moisture in.” says Dr Hopkirk. Try Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex or Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules.

Hyaluronic acid can also leave a sticky feeling on the skin, so it’s best applied first, followed by a richer cream. Thanks to its humectant abilities, it will absorb the water added in during further skincare steps.

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How does it pair with active ingredients?

This ingredient, unlike many others, plays nice when paired with your other skincare must-haves. “Hyaluronic acid can be used with most other active ingredients, without causing irritation,” he adds. Skinstitut EXPERT Reset Skin-Firming Peptide Serum combines the hydrating ingredient with antioxidants like niacinamide and Kakadu plum, nature’s richest source of Vitamin C. Ella Bache Neobright Correcting Serum can also amplify radiance through the combo of both ingredients. However, as you need to dampen your face prior to hyaluronic acid application, it’s important to make sure your skin is completely dry before you add further actives. “Applying actives like retinol and AHAs on damp skin will cause irritation,” warns Dr Hopkirk.