The Skincare Ingredients You Should Never Mix Together

Retinol (also known as vitamin A) is the real MVP of anti-aging skincare ingredients. It works to promote skin cell turnover and can help in reducing photoaging and oil production. Your main concern with retinol is that it promotes sun-sensitivity so wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily is a must if you want to incorporate it into your routine. 

How to use
According to Dr Freeman, an ingredient like retinol works best if you use it at night as it’s not a molecule that’s stable with light exposure.  

How not to use
“Retinol does not deactivate any chemicals,” says Freeman. While using vitamin C and retinol together was once thought to be counteractive, this has since been disproved in modern formulations of stable vitamin C. However, it can induce irritation so anything that will sensitise the skin should be avoided. “It is my recommendation to avoid salicylic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, exfoliants, benzoyl peroxide and perfumed serums, night masks or moisturisers”, suggests Freeman. 

We love: : Skinstitut Retinol Serum

Another powerhouse ingredient is vitamin C which increases collagen synthesis and protects the skin from free radicals and environmental pollution to prevent pigmentation. “Sunscreen blocks out approximately 55% of UVA sun-induced free radicals, making vitamin C especially helpful in making up this shortfall,” says Freeman.  

How to use
Combining vitamin C with both vitamin E and ferulic acid can enhance its effectiveness so it’s worth looking for a serum that contains all three ingredients to ensure you’re getting the most out of your serum. “Vitamin C is safe to add to any beauty routine and has a low likelihood of interacting with any other part of your cosmetic routine,” says Freeman. 

How not to use
According to Freedman, vitamin C is fairly foolproof as there are no contraindicated ingredients. “It is safe to use as indicated, but the most useful application would be a morning application.”

We love: : Medik8 Super C Ferulic

Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids are chemicals that have an exfoliating effect on the skin. AHA’s are best for improving skin texture and tone, while BHA (salicylic acid) is great for reducing blackheads, oily skin and acne. 

How to use
“AHA’s can be combined well with vitamin C, vitamin E, nicotinamide, Glycyrrhiza glabra and Camellia sinensis,” recommends Freeman. For BHA (typically salicylic acid) he suggests using it as a short-contact product, preferably as a cleanser used at nighttime. Salicylic acid can also enhance the delivery of other active ingredients to the skin so using other serums afterwards can promote uniformed delivery and speed up results.

How not to use
When using AHA’s and BHA’s in your skincare routine, he recommends avoiding products that can lead to irritation and increased skin sensitivity – think strong retinoids, harsh cleansers, fragrances, aggressive exfoliators and prolonged steroid cream use. Freeman also advises that “high concentration salicylic products are not considered safe during pregnancy.”

We love: Elizabeth Arden PREVAGE Progressive Renewal Treatment

Niacinamide has grown in popularity over the last few years, and for good reason. Its benefits include anti-inflammation, anti-redness, decreased oil production and a reduction in the appearance of pigmentation.

How to use
So, what can you use alongside niacinamide? Just about anything! “For me, it's an essential ingredient to add to just about every routine,” says Freeman

How not to use
There are no ingredients that you can’t use with niacinamide, so feel free to add this complexion perfector into your routine alongside any other serums or treatments. 

We love: : The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

Another ingredient that’s become more popularised in recent years is hyaluronic acid. This hydrating chemical occurs naturally in our skin and binds water to itself, increasing its volume. Adding a hyaluronic acid based serum to your routine can lead to a smoother looking complexion and a reduction in the appearance of wrinkles. 

How to use
Although hyaluronic acid can safely be used with all ingredients, most topical formulations aren’t efficient in penetrating our skin. “It acts as an excellent moisturiser but topically tends not to give any benefit to volume or significant laxity correction.” So while it may not give you significant results over time, it will leave you with a bouncy, plump looking complexion in the short term. 

How to not use
Although there are no ingredients that interact with hyaluronic acid, you may want to consider your skin type before adding it to your routine. “I would not typically recommend heavy hyaluronic acid containing moisturiser for very oily skin, rosacea or during the active stages of moderate to severe acne,” says Freeman.

We love: Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex

Gone are the days when sunscreen was merely an afterthought, reserved for beach days. “I would suggest that sunscreen is probably the most essential component of an anti-ageing or beauty routine,” says Freeman. If you don’t already have a decent sunscreen in your routine, this is your sign to add one in immediately. 

How to use
“It can interact with heavy concealer, oil-based makeup and hyaluronic acid based moisturisers to create an oily or dewy look that some patients find cosmetically unappealing, but there is no chemical interaction,” says Freeman. Although it may take some trial and error, it’s worth finding a sunscreen that fits in with your lifestyle so that it seamlessly becomes part of your everyday routine. If you have sensitive skin, it’s best to use a physical sunscreen like zinc, titanium dioxide or liposomal sunscreen oils. 

How not to use
Again, it’s all about finding the right fit for your lifestyle. Luckily there are so many different types of formulations available and even day creams that contain SPF 30+ or higher so you won’t have to add an extra step to your beauty regime.