Celebrating Natural Hair

When you walk into a party, how do you introduce yourself?

Shareefa: “Hi, my name is Shareefa. I’m 28 and a plus-size model and presenter from London!”

Mahalia: “I am Mahalia from Australia (it rhymes). I’m a model and activist, hailing from the same town that Crocodile Dundee was filmed and living in NYC. I’m from parents who both immigrated to Australia, coming from a Irish and Maori heritage. I've been here and will continue to shake and change the Industry up by being the visual representation of racial and plus size inclusion for Australians.”

How did Shine 4 Diversity come about?

S: “When I was living and modelling in Australia (2017-2019), I noticed the lack of diversity within the Australian media and felt the absence of equality when working on set for some brands. Mahalia posted something on Instagram about the issues surrounding racial inclusion and I responded to it, from there we arranged a meeting to discuss how we can help move things forward and help raise awareness, from there the rest is history!”

M: “Shine seemed from such a multitude of moments for me. I had been told by someone in the industry that "Race wasn't really a thing anymore in fashion" and that it had found its equality. I went to the nearest shopping centre and counted how many people of colour I could see on one department floor and the ratio was 3:27. I have been modelling for 10 years in Australia and still see a low ratio of inclusion used presently. I felt like it was my responsibility, with the position that I was in, to demand change by presenting an alternative of strong imagery and message of people of colour and diversity. Luckily after posting the ratio of models to my Instagram somebody who was just as passionate as me about the topic contacted me to find a way we could do something about it, that was Shareefa, and two years later here we are."

Why is it such an essential movement?

S: “The conversation surrounding race is still very taboo and often seen as a negative thing in our society, however starting an open dialogue around these issues will mean that one day the problems we face now will no longer exist.”

M: “All my life I've been on the receiving end of daily racial micro-aggressions, as have many others. I grew up not being able to see myself reflected in catalogues, on TV or where I went shopping. My mother is white and I always saw her beauty reflected in media but mine never was. It really created a complex growing up. I know this movement is important not just for young people but also a topic that helps bring the discussion of diversity and racial inclusion into workforces, so companies which will create a trickle effect into how people feel. Every ‘minority’ deserves to feel celebrated and included.”

What obstacles have you come up against, personally, throughout your careers?

S: “If I had a cent for every obstacle I’ve faced surrounding my race, size and gender within my career I would be a very rich woman. I would have to say the micro-aggressions within the workplace (and in social settings) are still very prevalent from people patting my afro as if I’m a zoo animal to comments about the size of my body. The list is endless.”

M: “There’s been so many – ha! Truly for myself it has been about being included fairly, as a plus-size model and one with brown skin, so often we are put to sway in the background or be sat on the floor away from the focus, ticking a box. Personally I can't stand it when a company tries to tell me 'I'm too exotic'. I was born and raised here, my mother is from Ireland and my dad is from our next door neighbour country. There's nothing 'exotic' about that – it's just a word used to cover the meaning "your ethnicity isn't palatable to the Euro-centric fit we actually want"

Slowly, slowly, the world is realising that beauty doesn’t conform to that typical image of a model from, say, the ’90s. Is there anywhere you’ve worked in the world we could learn from in ANZ?

M: “Yes slowly we are! which is fantastic and so touching to see that the efforts of those championing the movement are allowing for progression for the future. Personally I think London and NYC are really progressive in the way they are inclusive and celebrate diversity through imagery and in media. However, I think the one thing Australia could implement is creating and fostering more supermodels and Australian talent from within Australia. A lot of the time you have to be recognised for your achievements abroad, or recognition is only found if another country declares it. Why can't we declare and foster our own superstars?”

S: “I think the UK has really moved in the right direction within advertising in the last few years, although they still have a long way to go. The industry has started to realise that consumers want talent they can relate to and aspirational doesn’t have to mean unattainable, I think we are finally saying goodbye to the idea of ‘perfection’ and hello to the idea of being human.

"In the UK, within most advertising we will see a person of colour, lots of natural hair textures – not just used in a stereotypical way e.g. if you have an afro or dark skin you are ‘urban’ and therefore you belong in a sportswear campaign.”

You’ve worked for THE ICONIC for quite a while, and now we see you model some of our apparel in this beautiful new shoot – a celebration of natural hair. How was this shoot different to others?

M: “Yes! It has been a few years now. Every shoot I get to engage in I love to see the progression we make over time. This particular shoot we had only models with textured/afro hair on set, and a team trained to work with models of colour. We also had a floral stylist who donated her time and pieces to exemplify the beauty of afro hair by having flowers placed into them. The balance of having a educated team and specific models I believe drives the message further about what Afro hair can do, why education is important for makeup artists and hairstylists in fashion and that there are a range of styles and imagery that can be used in commercial and high profile campaigns, this shoot proves that inclusion can be achieved and that the results are sensational.”

What was your ultimate hair disaster? Have you had an experience where you or someone else has just not got it right?

S: “When I started modelling my first ‘big name’ modelling agency told me the only way I would get work is by wearing a straight hair wig, which meant that I had my afro hair braided and the wig sewn into the braid as this helps the wig to look as realistic as possible. 

"The process is not comfortable and the strain the wig put on my hair meant that after one year of doing this my hairline was falling out. I often had stress bumps and rashes around my head, I would get headaches and on more than one occasion my scalp even bled. 

"At the time I was modelling for some really big named brands in the UK, so encouraging my agency to let me wear my hair natural took years, eventually I was able to ditch then wigs just before moving to Australia and not long after ended up modelling for many brands including THE ICONIC who always embraced my natural hair just as it was!”

M: “Often my hair is underestimated with its thickness and is plaited into a small bun with the front only showing because finishing my hair becomes overwhelming or the curls aren't defined enough and left frizzy. However, I am hyper-aware that what I go through is a minimal problem opposed to what people with textured hair and afro hair go through. I guess that was a driving point of this campaign. I hear their stories and frustration and want to help and raise awareness and be an ally.”

When you’re in Australia, do you have a go-to hairdresser you love?

“YES! My girl Amanda Tua @ Amandatua_hair.  Also the most integral part of this campaign – the hair stylists: Chrissy zemura @chrissyzemurahair, Lachlan Wignall @Lachlan_hair, Claire Vella @hairculturebyclaire."

What one thing would you go back in time and say to little Mahalia if you could?

M: “I would tell my younger self that bravery and courage is actually walking towards the pain knowing it's necessary because of what comes out of it on the other side. And that in the future we will do many things that help others, and there will be many people there to help us, to have faith in that.”

S: "They would be shocked we still need to make noise about equality in 2020 and they would be proud that we had the courage to start a very tough conversation. I would say, “Don’t worry, one day you will be accepted just as you are and beauty comes in so many different forms”.

And finally, what’s the dream for the future?

M: “As a whole I would love for the topic to not be something we have to fight for anymore because it would just be general practice, that on a mental and spiritual level people of colour would feel included because we were. In the workforce, in media, for our opinions and knowledge, that discrimination would not exist or be used for capital gain. 

“For Shine, I would love for it to be an open platform where people can showcase their own campaigns and stories so that they can be recognised. A place where myself and Shareefa can continue to create strong imagery and videos that help drive a message of inclusion further. Personally, I would love my own show where I seek diverse talent throughout Australia – very ANTM vibes. I hope to continue growing as a strong representation of diversity inclusion into a supermodel for (and within) Australia and seek to also begin working behind the scenes with brands/companies to help bring imagery of diverse talent to life.”

S: “My dream for the future is true equality in every sense of the word. To live in a world where everyone can be free to be their true authentic selves without having to modify themselves to fit into society's beauty standards.”

Mahalia and Shareefa would like to thank and acknowledge the team on this shoot:
Chrissy zemura @chrissyzemurahair, Lachlan Wignall @Lachlan_hair, Claire Vella @hairculturebyclaire. 

Our floral stylist who was such an important part of the team, Bethan Waterhouse owner of @saint.fleur.au

Makeup artist, Tri-anh Nguyen

Photographer Steve Harnacke 

Sun Studios for the space, of course THE ICONIC, for supporting us constantly and for some of the clothing and all the agencies, models and assistants on the day who trusted in the vision.