Streetwear is Maturing: Are You Ready for the New Casual?

The next evolution.

When Virgil Abloh talks, the fashion world listens. The proprietor of the all-conquering Off-White hype machine, and artistic director of Louis Vuitton, Abloh recently sent shockwaves through the fashion industry when he reflected on the alleged end of streetwear.

‘I would say it’s definitely gonna die, you know?’ Virgil recently told Dazed in reference to the trend.

Hype, exclusivity and logomania have indeed taken over, and snaking lines outside Supreme stores left fashion houses eager for a taste. Louis Vuitton blew-up the market with Supreme in 2017, Gucci enlisted the help of streetwear’s godfather Dapper Dan, and Dior are still charting new flight paths with His Airness in 2020.

But are we slowly starting to see the next evolution of streetwear?

With people’s desire to dress up more pronounced than ever, is it possible to rock a wardrobe of Gieves and Hawkes suit jackets and Weejun Larson penny loafers next to Champion hoodies and Chuck Taylors?

Absolutely.

It’s time to embrace ‘The New Casual’.

Image with thanks to Getty

What is Streetwear?
Streetwear originally emerged amongst the Los Angeles surf scene, and New York’s fledgling hip hop movement, during the late 1970s and early 1980s. Later incorporating a wide sartorial lens that featured everything from punk’s DIY attitudes to Japanese couture, streetwear initially took shape thanks to trailblazers like Shawn Stussy.

Founded in Southern California during the 1980s, Shawn Stussy’s eponymous label is credited with introducing ‘exclusivity’ into the streetwear vernacular, as Shawn’s custom surfboards and tees were initially sold from his van in Laguna Beach.

Later, during the 1990s, skate and hip hop took root, and sportswear manufactured by teams like the Chicago Bulls and New York Yankees knocked it out of the ballpark.

Soon, fashion houses began to permeate pop culture, accelerated by the e-comm boom and celebrity fit pics. Labels like Supreme, BAPE and Stussy soon became the most coveted brands on planet earth.

Now, in 2020, hype, clout and collaborations still rule the roost, but are we starting to see a transformation?

The Next Episode
Streetwear will always be an ever-evolving, amorphous concept. With the lights recently being turned out in NBA tunnels, runways, football matches, and high street saunters, streetwear has been relegated to the enduring hoodie and sweatpant combination for much of 2020.

But the inclination to dress more formally is hitting a fever pitch, and the concept of ‘The New Casual’ is slowly taking shape. In short, it’s the desire to combine the laid-back attitude of streetwear with the formality of tailored clothing.

Tailoring was, of course, already making deep inroads into the world of streetwear. Fear of God recently collaborated with Zegna on tailoring, while Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones routinely send suits down the runway. Let’s also not forget Kanye West’s eye-watering, navy Burberry suit and riding boots that sent the Internet into overdrive in November last year, prompting streetwear soothsayers to again claim: ‘The end is nigh!’.

But it’s probably more apt to think of streetwear as maturing, rather than coming to an end, and with that we’ve seen the desire to flex logos becoming more muted.

Look for streetwear with more longevity and vintage principles.

Ever wanted to bring in a rotation of Scotch & Soda pleated trousers and Vans Sk8-His? Kelly Country blazers alongside Champion hoodies?

Now’s the time.

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