New Balance 990v5: The Perfect Evolution

New Balance have introduced the perfect follow-up to an all-timer, the 990v5.

What do you do when it’s time to introduce a follow-up to a universally-acclaimed classic?

That’s the conundrum New Balance have faced with each successive entry into the beloved 99x series. Since the debut of the original 990 in 1982, the 99x series has been nearly unparalleled when it comes to its combination of timeless, comfortable, premium, dad-approved cool. After all, how do you improve upon the OG 990’s clean colourways, breathable mesh base, luxurious pigskin suede overlays, moulded heel clip, Vibram outsole, and 3M reflectivity?

As New Balance put it, the brand’s R&D department was given an ambitious task in 1978: ‘develop the very best running shoe they were technically capable of, regardless of the time it took or the money it cost’. Four years later, the world was blessed with the 990 – the first runner to ever exceed the then-lofty 100-dollar price point – and the world of running sneakers would never be the same.

Image via New Balance

From the 990 to the 990v4

The 990 was so good, in fact, that New Balance didn’t even drop a successor until 1986. More of a subtle upgrade than a revolutionary overhaul, 1986’s 995 largely kept the 990’s winning aesthetic in place while making minor – though important – tweaks like adding a moulded size-specific outsole and pre-moulded ENCAP unit for improved cushioning distribution. The 995 was the epitome of the mantra ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’.

That clichéd motto may as well have been the series’ official slogan in the years to come, as each successive iteration expertly built upon the one prior. For example, 1988’s 996 modernised the shoe’s design language and gave it a more aggressive, tech-savvy aesthetic before the instant-classic 997 brought a moulded ‘collar lockdown strap’ to the mix along with revamped tooling in 1990. The 998 and 999 followed suit in 1993 and 1996, respectively, and further cemented the 99x as an all-time icon – and chunky dad-style go-to – before New Balance finally hit the reset button and took things back to the original 990 with 1998’s second version of the design.

Aptly dubbed the 990v2, this is the shoe that would set the stage for the 99x series in the years to come. Essentially the answer to the question ‘What would the R&D department’s 990 look like if it had first been conceived in 1998 instead of 1978?’, the 990v2 brought additional overlays to the mix, modern tech, and laid the groundwork for the aesthetic and tech offerings of all future 99xs. New Balance even filled in the majority of the conventional naming gaps (sans 994, though) with the 991, 992 and 993 from 2001 through 2008, all of which further refined the 99x package. Then, in 2012, New Balance brought forth the third version of the 990, giving the shoe a more utilitarian edge, while simultaneously using streamlined tooling to tone down the chunk just a tad. Four years later, NB lovers were treated to the best 990 yet – and what can be said about the 990v4 that hasn’t been said already?

Introduced in 2016, the v4 was created by New Balance to be the best that the 990x series had to offer, taking the best design elements of each entry and combining them into the perfect package. The result was a silhouette that was decidedly ahead of its time – though loved by longtime fans from the get-go, the rejuvenation of the chunky retro-inspired trends of recent years brought a bevy of new fans to the design.

With that in mind, New Balance went back to the drawing board before bringing forth a more contemporary spin on the 990’s signature style.

Image via New Balance

990v5: The Dad Shoe to Rule Them All?

As New Balance product manager Eric Vassall explains, ‘The 990v5 was a challenge because the 990v4 was a really good shoe. To update that shoe we had to decide which things we wanted to build upon or improve upon, and then work out how we’re going to do that.’

So, in typical 99x fashion, NB built off the successes of the previous version – ENCAP cushioning, pigskin suede and mesh construction, 3M reflectivity, blown rubber outsoles, and NB’s tried and true colourways were all brought back for another go around – while making a few carefully chosen refinements, this time looking ahead to where the dad-approved styles may go from here.

‘You see the chunky trend that’s going on. That shoe would kind of hit the mark because it’s always been that chunky sort of dad shoe. But we’re also seeing some products that are a little bit sleeker in terms of the overall look,’ explains Vassall. ‘How do we keep that dad feel but, at the same time, also streamline it a little bit more so it looks a little faster or a little bit more youthful?’

So, with that in mind, NB streamlined the look of the tooling and tied it into the heel counter while retaining the v4’s 12mm drop. Naturally, branding badges were also modernised, while the upper was modified to feature a cleaner set of overlays. The biggest change? The addition of a moulded TPU ‘power strap’, a design element that not only ties into the top eyelets for support, but harkens back to a similar suede panel from the original 990v2. Last but not least, OrthoLite inserts were added to make the shoes even comfier than their predecessor.

And the best part? The kicks have been personally approved by the man at the very top of the company. According to Vassall, ‘This is a big shoe for the owner of the company, Jim Davis. We still sit down with Jim when we design the shoes, and take him through the designs to get his feedback, so that we’re not overstepping our bounds.’

And if the v5 is good enough for Jim Davis, then it’s good enough for you.

To get a taste of the latest in the storied 990 series, you can pick up your pair now via SneakerHub while supplies last.

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