Brother Vellies: More Than Just Fancy Shoes

Keeping traditional artisanship alive

Aurora James approaches fashion in a whole new way. Helping to keep African artisanship alive, her instinct for the part that traditional techniques play in a modern world has gained Brother Vellies a cult following. We chatted to the designer about bridging the gap between heritage African footwear and glitter boots...

Where did the name Brother Vellies come from?
The name Brother Vellies comes from my first signature style, which is a modern interpretation of the traditional African desert boot called the Velskoen, or “vellie” (pronounced “fellie”) in South African slang. Many places in Africa have their own traditional type of shoes, and I fell in love with the idea of Brother Vellies being essentially a brotherhood of shoes.

Where did your love of African footwear begin?
I first visited Africa many years ago, and as I traveled throughout the continent, I noticed there were so many traditional shoe shapes and artisanal techniques that were unique to each region, and I really felt inspired to show these incredible skills to the rest of the world. In creating Brother Vellies, I wanted to make sure that I used the brand as a vehicle to preserve the shoemaking craft that was my original inspiration, and to create new jobs for artisans.

I truly believe that everything about African footwear is special and unique. When I fell in love with Africa, I also fell in love with the natural materials, the traditional artisanal skills, and the rich cultural pride behind each shoe, and I still build my collection off of this foundation every season.

via Instagram @brothervellies

You live in New York – how do you keep a close connection to the continent that most inspires your brand?
I still travel to Africa every 2 to 3 months to visit our workshops and meet with our artisans. Each time that I go, I fall in love all over again with what we are doing there. I also communicate constantly with each of our workshops by WhatsApp to consult on production and process issues. Because of the time difference, I am often doing this in the middle of the night, but it's this sort of close relationship that makes our production possible.

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via Instagram @brothervellies

Does your style have be daring to wear Brother Vellies designs?
I actually think that Brother Vellies as a brand encompasses many different women and their varying sense of style. I believe that to wear Brother Vellies you are playful, enjoy comfort, and appreciate sustainable business practices – but you could be one of those, or you could be all three!

via Instagram @brothervellies

Where else do you seek inspiration? How do you bridge the gap between traditional African footwear and a glitter boot, for example?
I constantly have sparks of inspiration from the people and places around me. Whether it’s spending time with my closest friends or walking through my neighbourhood in Brooklyn, I always have jolts of creativity and new ideas from these experiences. Everyone needs a bit of whimsy and magic in their lives, so I hope my shoes bring that to every person that wears them.

What do you think the difference in outcome is by crafting a product by hand?
I feel like there is a sense of love and dedication that is put into handcrafted pieces that resonates throughout even the buying experience. When you wear these pieces there is a deeper emotional connection that bonds you to the products far beyond it being cool or fashionable.

via Instagram @brothervellies

What steps do you take to be sustainable?
When I think about sustainable fashion, I like to think about it as a 360 degree approach. It is extremely important to think about how we encompass these principles from the beginning to the end. What are the materials? Who is making it? How does it get to the consumer? How does the consumer treat it? How are all the people in the process treated? We use fur that is either an animal byproduct from the Kenyan food industry or repurposed from vintage pieces. Also, we use vegetable dying to minimize the harmful effects of chemicals on the surrounding environment. We believe that Brother Vellies is "Slow Fashion" and that our pieces designed and crafted to last.

Why is it important for you to ensure jobs in Africa?
Different cultures in Africa, which have existed for hundreds and thousands of years, already fuel a lot of inspiration in fashion. There are a lot of designers that are heavily influenced by West African wax printing, or Maasai beading, Kenyan wood-carving, and other elements that are, in their indigenous regions, very much part of the fabric of everyday life. I suppose I would like to see those techniques and elements kept alive and in the hands of the people for whom it is an expertise, not just because the makes a difference in the lives of the maker, but because the quality and craftsmanship behind those handmade elements are unrivalled.

via Instagram @neadajane

What is your dream for the brand in the future?
There is so much! We are constantly growing and evolving as a brand. My focus is to always dream with my eyes open and truly believe that anything is possible.